Moccasin



July 18, 1933. J. J. WHITE 1,918,946

MOCCASIN Filed Jan. 5, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet l J. J. WHITE July 18, 1933.

MOCCASIN Filed Jan. 5. 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 1471 75h72 if o. f n Jeferred 'embodiment of the invention, to pro-- l.101m J. WHITE,

Patented July 18, 1933 UNITD STATES PivrsN'r orrlcr-il OFKCHICAGO,ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOB TO THE FLOBBHEIH SHOE O0., l'

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A. CORPORATION 0F ILLINOIS MOCCASIN' Application medJanuary 5, 1931. Serial No. 506,767.

'shoe from the toe thereofto a point at the -breast of the heel oradjacent it.

The improved method of manufacturing the moccasin ermits the vamp to bemolded 0n a last and ave the edges described above overlapfeach other 1nsuch manner that exi cessmaterial can be cut away by a single stroke ofa cutting tool. The improved method makes it unnecessary, in the prevideseams extending laterally from the substantially central seam descrlbedabove.

A moccasin constructed b vpracticing the improved method is shape y anddurable, andthe material from which it is formed does not gather inbunches, etc., to annoy the wearer. i

The improved method effects a saving in labor. PartA of the saving isdue to the fact that the vamp is easily, given the correct size andshape without cutting blanks therefor to the exact size and shape. Theexcess material is simply cut awayprior to the sewin operation.

ther ob'ects and advantages of the invention will become apparent as thefollowing detailed description progresses, reference being had to theaccompanying drawings, wherein:

e Fi urel is a side elevation of a moccasin whic embodies the invention.

Fig, 2 is a section taken on line 2-2 of Fi I. 'ig. 3 is asection takenon line 3 3 of Fi .1. liig. 4 is a section taken on line 4--4 of i 5 isa sideelevation of the u per porl l 8 e P yinner surface o the vamp.

tion of the moccasin before the sole is attached thereto. l Fig.r 6 is abottom plan view of the upper portion shown in Fig. 5. l Y

Fig. 7 is a bottom plan View of the upper portion of the moccasin as itIappearsl uponva lastbefore it has been completed.

Flg. 8 is an elevation of a plug which is placedwithin the moccasin atthe front end thereof to cover a relativel small opening left in thebottom portion o the vam'p.

Y Fig. 9 is a blank from which the vamp for' the improved moccasin isformed. y

Figs. 10 and 11 are the blanks fromy which the quarters of the improvedmoccasin are formed, and

Fig. 12 is a blank from which the front of the improved moccasin isformed. t

Referring to the drawings wherein ay preferred form of the invention Aisillustrated, it will be noted that the moccasin comprises a vamp A;quarters B and B,;.a `foxing pon' tion C secured to the uarters B and B;a toe cap D; a leather so e E a sole E formed of crepe rubber; a plug aninner sole member H, and a tongue J which is to the rear edge ofthefront D.;

Referring to F1gs. ,1` to f6 inclusive, it will be noted that the toecap is secured toy the 'vam A by stitches 15, which extend throu h `a'fo,ded edge of the vamp. The edges ofte vamp 'at the bottom of the shoeabut each other' 'and are secured to each other by stitches 16 which maybe made by a sewing machine, just as the stitches may beA made byanewing' machine.I The quarters B and VB are secured to the rear edgesofthe vamp A by machine stitches 17 the rear edges of the yquartersbeing secured tothe front ed es o the foxing portion C by machine sti es1 y p from leather and secured Ato thefoxing portion C and the quartersB yand B by any suitable means, such as nails 20 (see Fig. 6). Theleather sole E is securedto the ,upper portion of the moccasin bymachine stitches v21, which 'also extend through the plug G,

Athe plug G bein preferably cemented to the secured iIhe inner sole H ispreferably formed- Referring to Fig. 9, wherein a blank for the vamp Ais shown, it will be noted that the blank 25 is rovided with an excessof material in the orm of flaps 26 which are spaced from each other by arelatively wide notch 27 cut in the blank. The cut forming the bottom ofthe notch 27 extends a short distance into both of the flaps 26, asindicated at 28. Disposed opposite the notch 27 on the other side of theblank 25 is an arcuate edge 29 to which the forward edge 30 of the frontis sewed, the lateral edges of the toe cap D being sewed to edges 31 ofthe blank 25, which edges 31 extend substantially tangentially from thearcuate edge 29. he stitches 15 which secure the toe cap D to the vamp Aextend along the edges 29 and 31 between two clits or sl1ts 33 made inthe blank 25, this construction being employed to provide a folded edgeupon the vamp where it meets the front D.

In Figs. 10 and 11, blanks 35 and 36 for forming the quarters B and B',respectively, are shown. The forward edges 35a and 36a are secured tothe rear edges 25a of the blank 25 by the stitches 17, the back edges35o and 366 of the blanks 35 and 36 being secured to the heel portion Cby the stitches 18.

In practicing the improved method, the blank 25 of the vamp A isstitched to the front D and to the blanks 35 and 36 which form thequarters B and B', the heel portion C being secured to the rear edges ofthe quarters as described above. The inner sole member H is then tackedto a last 40 to form the heel-seat of the moccasin (see Fig. -7) and theassembled front, assembled quarters and foxing are drawn over the last40, these assembled parts being in a wet condition. The assembledstructure is molded over, or shaped to the last, as illustrated in Fig.7, so that the flap portions 26 of the vamp A overlap each other.The.vamp is then secured in this positionto the last 40 by tacks 41, orthe equivalent and permitted to remain in this positionv until it hasdried. A knife or any other suitable cutting tool is then drawn throughthe overlapping flaps 26 along a line extending longitudinally of themoccasin and, more or less, `centrally thereof to provide the abuttingedges which are subsequently secured to each other by the stitches 16,described above. The foxing portion` is tacked tothe heel-seat or innersole member H by the tacks or nails 20. After the upper portion of themoccasin has been removed from the lastk 40, the plug G is cemented tothe inner surface of the vamp A to cover a relatively small aperture 4.3which appears at the front end of the seam formed by the stitches 16 seeFig. 6). The leather sole E may then e secured to the upper portion ofthe moccasin by the stitches 21 after which the sole F is secured to theleather sole E.

It will be readily understood by those skilled in the art that theinvention is not limited :to the use of a foxing member C of the typeshown in the drawings, as the quarters may be made to extend around theheel of the shoe, or an other suitable construction may be emp oyed. Itis also to be understood that any suitable sole may be employed and thatthe invention is limited to the structure which is shown only to theextent indicated in the appended claims.

Moccasins embodying the invention may 'bemanufactured relativelyinexpensively as it is not necessary to sew seams therein by hand,although some or all of the seams may be sewed by hand if it is sodesired. The

improved construction of the vamp insures.

that the moccasinwill retain its shape and that the moccasin will bepleasing in appearance at all times. f

While the plug G is shown as a relatively short member for covering theaperture 43 left at the forward end of the seam formed by the stitchesv16, it will be readily understood that it may be made to extendsubstanially the entire length and width of the shoe, or, if it is sodesired, it may be made of such length that it will cover the entireseam formed in the bottom of the vam As explained above, the plug G isre erably secured to the vamp by the stitc es 21, as well as by cement.

While I have shown and described certain embodiments of my invention, itis to be understood that it is capable of many modifications. Changes,therefore, in the construction and arrangement may be made Withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention as disclosed in theappended claims, inwhich it is my intention to claim all noveltyinherent in my invention as broadly as possible, in view of the priorart.

What I regard as new, and desire to seting through said overlappingportions tov form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges toeach other to form a seam.

2. A method of' forming a moocasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, folding the blank over a lastin suchmanner that the excess material forms overlapping portionsextending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through said overlappingportions while the blank is on said last to form abutting edges in thevamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

3. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over alast in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portionsextending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through at least one ofsaid overlapping portions to form edges extending adjacent each other inthe vamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

4. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over alast in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portionsextending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through said overlappingportions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges toeach other to form a seam.

5. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, assembling said vamp blankwith a toe cap and quarters, shaping the assembled structure over a lastin such manner that the excess material of the vamp blank fgrmsoverlapping portions extending along the bottom ot' the vamp, cuttingthrough said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp,and securing said edges to each other.

6. A method of forming a inoccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to atoe cap and quarters, shaping the assembled structure in a Wet conditionover a last in such manner that the excess material forms overlappingportions extending along the bottom of the vamp, tacking said vamp tosaid last while it is wet to hold said overlapping portions in theiroverlapping condition until the assembled structure is dry. cuttingthrough said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp,and securing,r said abutting edges to each other.

7. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over alast in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portions,cutting through said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in thevamp, securing said edges to each other to form a seam extendingsubstantially longitudinally at the bottom of the vamp, and securing aplug to the inner surface of said vamp to cover the forward end of` saidseam.

8. A moccasin comprising a vamp having a seam in the bottom thereof,which seam comprises two edges of the vamp stitched to each other toform a seam extending from the toe to the instep, and a plug secured tothe inner side of said vamp at the forward end of said seam.

9. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing avamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to afront and quarters, shaping the assembled structure in a Wet conditionover a last in such manner that the excess material forms over-lappinportions extending along the bottom o the vamp, securing said vamp tosaid last while it is wet to hold said over-lapping portions in theirover-lapping condition until the assembled structure is dry, cuttingthroughat least one of said over-lapping portions to form abutting edgesin the vamp, and securing said abutting edges to each other.

10. A method of forming a AInoccasin, which method comprises forming avamp blank having excess material therein, shaping said vamp blank in aWet condition over a ast in such manner that the excess material formsover-lapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, securingsaid vamp to said last While it is Wet to hold said over-lappingportions in their over-lapping condition until the vamp is dry, cuttingthrough said over-lapping por tions to form abutting edges in the vamp,and securing said abutting edges to each other.

11. A method of forming a inoccasin, which method comprises forming avamp blank having excess material therein, shaping said vamp blank in aWet condition over a last in such manner that the excess material formsover-lapping portions extending along the bottom ofthe vamp, securingsaid vamp to said last while it is Wet to hold said over-lappingportions in their over-lapping condition until the vamp is dry, cuttingthrough atleast one of said over-lapping portions to form 'abuttingedges in the vamp, and securing said abutting edges to each other.

12. A method of formin a moccasin, which method comprises emp oying avamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to afront `and quarters. shaping the assembled struct-ure in a wet conditionover a last in such manner that the excess material forms over-lappingportions ext-ending longitudinally and substantially centrally along thebottom of the vamp` securing said vamp to said last while it is wet tohold said over-lapping portions in their overlapping condition until theassembled structure is dry, cutting through said over-lapping portionsto form abutting edges in the vamp` and sawing said abutting edges toeach other.

JOHN J. WHITE.

